Asian generic décor transports diners away from Bamboo’s strip mall storefront with earth tones, dark plank flooring, soft lighting and organic materials including, no surprise, an entire wall of elegantly lit sculptural bamboo. The menu incorporates Japanese, Thai, and Korean influences along with a few Western anomalies such as a roasted beet salad, a walnut-crusted salmon with white wine shrimp sauce and a dessert menu oceans away from anywhere in Asia. Distressingly, there is also an extensive selection of “Special Rolls,” the ubiquitous progeny of the fusion food movement and the American belief in “bigger is better.” A super-sized shrimp tempura roll topped with baked scallop, shrimp crab sticks and wasabi aioli? No thank you.

Nonetheless, there is much to be happy about at Bamboo. For starters, the imaginative grilled short rib appetizer delivers an unexpected kick by pairing thin bits of sweet and spicy beef with a bed of arugula. The spicy salmon roll is tasty in spite of relatively little salmon and a surprising crunchiness. The only miss is a bland summer roll crying out for some fresh coriander and a less overpowering sauce.

For main dishes, tender chicken and crunchy veggies glisten in a peppery sauce laced with Chinese Five Spice in the Thai-inspired chicken sauté with basil chili sauce and although the accompanying white rice was undercooked to my palate, it was perfectly al dente to my companion’s. The sushi and sashimi combination is not the most elegant presentation I’ve ever enjoyed, but it’s fresh and flavorful enough to compensate. And the vegetarian Pad Thai is solidly good although a liberal sprinkling of fresh bean sprouts and a few more crushed peanuts wouldn’t hurt. Since salt and spice abound at Bamboo, I was hankering for a beer, but there’s no liquor license so plan ahead and BYOB. The service was friendly and efficient, particularly at the sushi bar where the chef will do his best to make you happy. Appetizers and sushi rolls average around $4 to $6 and dinner entrées run from $13 to $24 (with the exception of the sushi and sashimi special for $55) so dinner for two will run you about $60. Bamboo does a brisk take-out business and they do deliver locally.

Dwarfed by neighboring Applebees and Starbucks, it’s easy to forget that Bamboo exists, but its loyal clientele and genteel atmosphere are testament that creativity and caring can outdo the franchise Goliaths.

Bamboo — (201) 750-2000
Monday through-Friday Lunch 12pm – 3pm, Dinner 5pm – 10pm
Saturday 12pm – 10pm, Sunday 4pm – 10pm