Unfortunately, the food isn’t always as seamless as the décor, but there are many positives beginning, appropriately, with cocktails. If the piped-in vintage jazz hasn’t gotten you in an old-style Vegas state of mind, a delectably frigid vodka martini might do it. Or, perhaps an expertly prepared Negroni (equal parts gin, Campari and sweet vermouth) will work its magic. This barman knows what he’s doing and with fresh bread and warm, spicy olive oil for dipping, it’s a promising start.

Next up are salads and there are two stars here; a lemony Classic Caesar lightly dressed and missing only a single whole anchovy for garnish, and the Green Apple Salad, a mélange of sweet golden raisins, tart apple, baby greens, savory bleu cheese and crunchy almonds.

Our smooth Barbera D’Alba is poured with a little too much fanfare and then, just as we’re ready to break into “Fly Me To The Moon,” the meal crashes and burns. The Linguine Nero, a Specialty Della Casa, is mired in a heavy cream sauce and a pile of overcooked shellfish. The Mediterranean Branzino with spinach, white bean and roasted garlic is tasty enough, but the Veal Milanese is flabby and bland. The service, which up to this point has ranged from congenial to overly solicitous to non existent, escalates to “How’s that vino doin’ for you?” Che cosa è con questo my fellow foodies? We were too disheartened to linger for dessert.

Coppola’s in Sparkill is the latest venture for chef Salvatore Coppola. Trattoria Coppola opened on Manhattan’s West Side in1986 and Coppola’s East near Gramercy Park in 1998. The Sparkill restaurant is a welcome addition to the area, but with unnecessary valet parking and dinner for two with wine and no dessert averaging out close to $100, it’s a little rough around the edges.